DIY Modern Wood Platform Bed Frame with Storage
Week 6 of the One Room Challenge is here and I swear time is going by even faster now that my eight weeks is almost over! This week I finally tackled the DIY platform bed. You know, an essential piece of a guest bedroom. But before I dive into this weeks bed frame project, let’s take a look back at week one, week two, week three, week four, and week five to see just how far this space has come. I knew from the beginning I wanted to make a bed for this room but I struggled with what I really wanted it to look like. But I am happy to report that I finally figured it out and I LOVE it!!! So let me walk you through this step by step DIY project and show you how I built this DIY Modern Wood Platform Bed Frame with Storage.
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What is a platform bed?
A platform bed is a bed frame that consists of wood bed slats or a flat surface like plywood that the mattress lays on and takes the place of a traditional box spring or bed rails. This type of bed traditionally sits a little lower to the ground and is quite a simple bed frame to build. With all the mattresses in a box, these types of beds have grown in popularity over the years.
Design Tip: Lowering the height of your bed is an easy way to make your bedroom feel more spacious since the bed will take up less visual space vertically.
Why DIY a bed?
I love to create unique pieces for my home and challenging myself to take on more difficult projects in building and woodworking. Not to mention the extra costs of new furniture have gone up so much, I definitely saved money by making this myself. And I am no stranger to a homemade bed frame. Years ago I made an upholstered bed, I built bunk beds in the other guest room, and I made a king bed frame and headboard for our adjustable base.
I also wanted something very specific that I did not see in any stores or online retailers. I wanted my platform bed to have unique features and have storage! But I wasn’t interested in storage drawers since they are not practical with bedside tables. So I set out to create my own bed frame with all the bells and whistles I wanted!
Not only does this bed have a unique look, it also has LED lights, storage, and built in power with USB and USBC for charging all your devices!
Before I dive into the free bed plans, let’s take a look at what the bed looked like a few weeks ago when I started this room makeover.
The old bed was just a headboard and metal bed frame with box springs. I did re-use the mattress which is a traditional spring mattress.
DIY Wood Platform Bed Frame Supplies
6 2x4s
1 4x4x8
21 1x3x8 Wood Slats
3 1x10x8 Pine Boards
Corner Clamps
Drill & Driver
Clamps
Tape Measure
2 1/2 inch screws
2 Recessed Outlets
LED Strip Lights
90 Degree Folding Hinges
Hasp Latch
Roller Latch
Long Level
Drill Bit Extender
Nail Gun
Miter Saw
Jig Saw
Orbital Sander
**Note for this tutorial I am only going to show you how to build the bed frame. I will share the headboard in a separate post next week 😉
*** All measurements provided here are for a queen size bed. If you have a king size or full size you will need to modify to fit the actual size of your mattress.
Step 1
Measure out your mattress. As I stated above this tutorial is for a queen bed. You may need to modify the dimensions if you have a different size bed. You will also want to consider the height of your mattress. I have an old school mattress that is fairly thick. Many foam mattresses are much thinner and your bed will sit lower if you do not account for this. My mattress measures 59.5Wx79Lx13.5H.
Step 2
Go to Home Depot or your local hardware store and pick up your wood, supplies, and wood screws for the wooden bed frame. If you are short on time you can always place an order for in store pickup.
Step 3
Build the platform bed frame. I built this out of 2x4s. This wood will not be seen so it doesn’t need to be anything fancy. I did build this in place in the room because I wasn’t sure it would fit through my stairwell. Keep this in mind especially for king-size beds.
My cut list was as follows. I cut two 2x4s to 82 inches for the sides, two 2x4s to 79 inches for the center support, and two 2x4s to 59 inches for the ends. To make sure my duplicate pieces were the same size I clamped them together and cut them at the same time on my miter saw. I did this with each of the three different sizes.
I then used my corner clamps to start assembling my rectangle frame. You do not have to use corner clamps, but they will make this part much easier and ensure it is square. Worth every penny in my opinion! Also, make sure you place the 82 inch pieces on the outside and the 59 inch pieces on the inside. Otherwise your bed will be the wrong dimensions for a queen.
With the corner clamps holding my wood together I drilled pilot holes for my screws. I highly recommend pre-drilling even if your screws say you don’t need to. I have split way too many pieces of wood and had to start over by not pre-drilling. I also used my framing straightener to fix any twisting 2x4s. You could also assemble this with pocket holes, but since this part of the frame will not be seen, I don’t think it’s necessary.
To attach the 2x4s I used 2 1/2 inch Spax construction screws. These are truly the best in my opinion and the star head keeps them from stripping out. I staggered the screws a little for extra strength.
Once my frame was assembled, I moved onto the center supports. These are the 79 inch pieces. I spaced them out about 18.5 inches apart and again used my corner clamps to hold them in place. I attached these in the same manner as the frame.
Step 4
Cut and attach the wooden slats. For this part I used 1x3x8s because I already had them from our old bed. I cut them all down to 61 3/4 inches using my miter saw. My total bed frame width is 62 inches and I wanted to make sure none of them hung off the edges. I again cut multiple pieces at a time but could only do five at a time.
I then attached all 21 of the wood slats using my brad nailer and 2 inch nails. I nailed each slat where it intersected with the 2×4 frame and center supports.
I spaced the slats with a scrap 2×4 standing on end.
Step 5
Cut and attach the bed frame legs. For this I used scraps of wood I had on hand. First I cut a left over 4×4 down to four 11 inch pieces.
This will impact the overall height of your finished bed. Like I said above, my mattress is older and quite thick at 13.5 inches. The overall height of my platform bed with the mattress is 26 inches. Keep this in mind if you have a short mattress as you may want to make your legs taller.
You will also need legs for the middle of the frame for extra support. Since these will not be seen under the bed, I used scrap 2x4s and again cut them to 11 inches. You should have enough 2×4 scraps from building the frame to make these legs.
I painted both the 4×4 and 2×4 legs tricorn black with the left over paint from the dresser. In total I have eight legs. You could also use something like hairpin legs on the corners but I think this method is more customizable and less expensive.
I first flipped my frame upside down so the slats were on the ground. I then attached the 4×4 legs to the inside corner of the frame with 2 1/2 inch screws on two of the sides staggering my screws so they would not intersect.
Then I attached the 2×4 inside legs to the two center supports of the frame. I staggered these legs to give added support, but in hindsight I should have attached them to the outside of each of the center supports to allow more room in the middle under the bed.
Step 6
Add the LED lights to the bottom of the bed frame. LED strip lights have quickly become one of my favorite things! I have used these on my wall wine rack and my office ceiling and they really do create an incredible vibe. These particular LEDs can even change colors to the beat of music! Stay tunned to my Instagram stories to see them in action 😉
I started installing them at the head of the bed in the right hand corner so I could hide the control next to the nightstand and still reach the outlet behind the bed. Just remember the frame is upside down so the right is really the left 😉
The LED lights have a sticky backing and you just peel off the tape and stick it to your surface. I stuck mine to the underside of the the 2×4 frame.
Going around the corners is a little tricky. I just folded the strip a little and stuck it down. But don’t worry, no one will actually see this part as it will be under the bed.
Step 7
Attach the headboard. I am not going to cover the DIY headboard in this post, but don’t worry, I will show you how to make it in a separate post! In order to finish the side panels on the bed frame, the headboard needs to be attached first.
When I built the headboard I designed the the platform bed frame to fit inside the trim of the headboard on the sides.
I also designed it so the back of the platform frame would line up with the support on the bottom of the headboard. I again used my 2 1/2 inch screws to attach the frame to the base of the headboard. I do recommend pre-drilling these holes as well. In total I used eight screws to attach the headboard to the back pieces of the frame. You can watch the full assembly in my Instagram story highlights.
Step 8
Cut the side panels for the bed frame. To cover the 2×4 frame I used 1x10x8 pine project panels. I used three in total, one for each side and one for the foot board.
I cut the two side panels down at the same time on my miter saw. Before you do this, double check to make sure your dimensions are the same. If you built the 2×4 frame without corner clamps it may not be perfectly square and they could be slightly different. Make sure you measure from the trim of the headboard to the end of the bed.
After the panels are cut down to size, give them a quick sand with 220 grit sand paper. I used my orbital sander. If you use project panels like I did, they shouldn’t need too much sanding.
Step 9
Cut out and install the recessed plugs. I decided I wanted to add recessed plugs to the bed frame because there is only one outlet on the bed wall in this room and it’s not easily accessible. I ordered these outlets that can be recessed and plug into the wall. No hardwiring required!
But before I could install them I needed to cut out holes in my side panels. I started by marking out the dimensions of the outlet housing making sure it would clear the bed frame these panels would be mounted to.
I then used my jig saw to cut out the opening. You can see how I did this in my Instagram story highlights.
Once the opening was cut out, I installed the recessed plugs. I did this for both panels for each side of the bed.
Step 10
Attach the right side panel. For this part I measured 1 inch from the top of the panel and marked it all the way down my board. I then used my long level to draw a line connecting all the dots. This line would be my guide to line up with the top of the bed slats.
Once I lined up the top of the bed slats with my line, I clamped the panel to the bed frame.
Attaching the panels to the bed frame was a little tricky with all the bed slats already in place. In hindsight, I probably should have attached the slats after the side panels. But this is where I was. So I used my drill bit extender to screw in the panels from the inside of the bed so the screws would not be seen.
For this I used 2 inch screws and even though it was difficult, I still pre drilled the holes too. To make sure it was strong enough I placed a screw at every other slat except for the ends where two ended up next to each other.
Step 11
Install the hinge on the left side panel. Because I wanted to have storage under my bed but I still wanted to have a pretty aesthetic, I came up with a way to open the foot board.
First I installed two of these flush mount hinges on the end of the left side panel. As I did on the right panel in step 10, I marked 1 inch from the top of the board. I then lined up the hinges in the closed position with the very end of the piece of wood. Note, both hinges have to clear the bed frame which is why they are at the top and bottom and not the middle.
Step 12
Cut and attach the end panel. The end panel should cover the entire front of the bed frame. My end panel is 63.5 inches long. I saved this cut for last to make sure I had the correct measurement before cutting. You will want to give this piece a light sand as well.
Once the end panel was cut and sanded, I attached it to the other end of the hinge. To do this I had to stand it on end. You want to make sure the end panel is on the outside edge and covers the butt joint.
After the hinge is attached to the end panel, you can proceed with attaching the left side panel to the bed frame in the same manner as step 10 only this time you will also need to clamp the foot board piece in place. I used my corner clamp on the right side to keep it steady while I attached the left side panel.
NOTE: DO NOT screw the end panel into the frame. This part will open.
Step 13
Install the latch for the end panel. For this part I experimented with several options but found this method to work best. I used a hasp latch on the top and a roller catch latch on the bottom. I initially had them switched but it wasn’t strong enough. The hasp latch needs to be on top.
Both latches come with two parts. For the hasp latch I installed the hinged portion on the the foot board panel. The right angle of this is 3/4 of an inch in from the end to allow space for the right end panel. Once this is in place you can close it and see where the opening hits to mark the right panel for the hook piece.
For the roller latch I did something very similar. Just make sure you leave enough space on the foot board piece for the width of the right side panel. This is what the inside will look like when you are done.
And this is a view from the top when it is closed.
Step 14
Lay back and enjoy your beautiful platform bed! This diy wood bed frame was an easy DIY and allowed me to fully customize my bed with LED lights, built in charging, and most of all, under-bed storage!
If you are looking for a custom modern bed frame with all the bells and whistles, this DIY bed frame plan is for you!
Happy Building!!!
What would I do differently?
Attaching the slats later. As I mentioned in step 10 I think installing the side panels would have been much easier if I had waited to install all the bed slats.
A kickstand for the food board. Since the footboard is quite long, I feel like it needs a kickstand or something to hold it up when it’s open. I am currently looking at options and will let you know what I decide.
Other than that I am very happy with how this inexpensive bed frame turned out!
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the approximate cost to build this?
This cost about $225 to build the bed frame including all the lumber and the lights, plugs, and hardware for the front to open. The headboard was another $185. So less than $425 in total!
Is this sturdy?
Yes! I have already had two full size adults sleep in this bed for a week and no one woke up on the floor or in a pile of rubble 😉
How much can you fit under the bed?
Quite a bit! There is 7 1/2 inches of clearance so an under the bed tub fits just fine.
Did you stain it or do a clear coat?
No, not yet. I will probably wax it but I ran out of time this week.
Can I paint it?
Absolutely! I really liked the look of the natural wood against the black wall but you can do whatever fits your style.
Still to come in the next two weeks before the big reveal for this guest room makeover….
– finish the DIY headboard
– closet interior makeover
– several small projects like decor and art
This entire room has come so far but I still have a lot to do and only two more weeks to go before the big reveal! I think I might have to postpone the interior of the closet, but stay tuned to see if I can pull a rabbit out of a hat 😉 And don’t forget, I am sharing all the behind the scenes on my Instagram stories.
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Don’t forget to stop by the One Room Challenge to check out all the other participants and give them some encouragement. I am sure they are feeling just as stressed as I am right now! Only two more weeks to go!
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