A staircase with light wood stair treads and white risers ascends, flanked by pristine white walls. A potted plant with tall, thin green leaves sits on the left side. At the top, a glimpse of a room is visible.
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DIY Modern Stair Treads & Risers

I have a super exciting DIY to share with you today!!! We finally updated our 1970s stairs with modern stair treads and risers! When I say this project has been a long time in the making, that is no lie. I wanted to makeover our stairs back in 2015 when I ripped out the nasty carpet but I wanted a more modern option than the traditional bull nose steps. As luck would have it, I dreamt up something that was not available to purchase. Shocker, I know! So when we decided to renovate the upstairs hallway, I knew it was time to find a solution. You wanna see what I came up with?

A modern interior staircase features sleek stair treads with wooden finishes and crisp white risers. A black handrail runs along the wall, while a potted plant adorns the bottom step. The wall below boasts elegant paneling. Text reads, "Modern Stair Treads & Risers.This post contains affiliate links. For more information, please see my policies.

Our house is a tri-level with a small set of stairs that lead to our bedrooms and another set of stairs that lead from our kitchen to our family room. When we replaced the flooring in our family room I ripped the carpet off the stairs and painted the treads and risers. This was a temporary solution that lasted six years! Last year when we made over the living room, we did the same thing to the steps going upstairs. This is what they looked like in the carpet phase.

A narrow staircase with beige carpet leads up to a dark door, its stair treads accented by white walls and slightly worn risers. A dark wooden handrail runs along the right, and a wooden floor can be glimpsed at the bottom of the stairs.

And this is what they looked like after I painted them. A staircase with black stair treads and white risers leads to a bright hallway. The walls are painted white, complemented by a sleek black handrail on the right side. A wooden floor graces the bottom, adding warmth and contrast to the monochrome design.

Painting them was a great temporary fix that looked ok from a distance, but up close you could see they were rough, and had many imperfections.Close-up view of three stair steps featuring dark gray stair treads and white risers. The minimalist and modern design complements the space beautifully. The logo "Garrison Street Design Studio" appears in the lower left corner.

I always envisioned something modern with a square tread not a bull nose. I had almost convinced Barry we could build our own, when I found these!!!! I think these could definitely be built, but with the rising costs of lumber, I wasn’t sure we could do it for much less not to mention the time savings. 

DIY Modern Stair Treads & Risers Supplies

Modern Square Stair Treads
Left Return Square Stair Treads 
Patterned Risers
Construction Adhesive
Painters Tape
Caulk
Speed Square
Water-based Clear Coat
Saw Max
Multi Tool
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Jigsaw
Contour Gauge
Tape Measure

Step 1

Order the new stair treads. These come in different lengths so you will want to measure your steps. We used five of the 36 inch treads and two of the left return 42 inch treads. If you do not have any larger steps at the bottom like we do, yours will likely all be the same size. These are unfinished Oak.A floating wooden shelf with a light natural finish against a plain white background, reminiscent of sleek stair treads. The rectangular shelf is crafted from smooth, polished wood, imparting a minimalist and modern look.

Step 2 

Decide on risers. Risers are the back part of the steps and if you are starting with stairs like ours, these will need to be addressed. Originally, I was planning to do plain white risers but I totally fell in love with these patterned risers that are double sided! I loved the chevron side, but the bead board would be so cute too! Two tall white wooden boards stand against a dark wood-textured wall, resembling stair treads. The board on the left showcases a chevron pattern, while the board on the right features horizontal lines.

Step 3 

Remove all the carpet, tack strips, carpet pad and staples. This is what our stairs looked like when we removed the carpet. Definitely not pretty. A set of wooden stairs with peeling paint and exposed wood, showing signs of wear and tear. The worn stair treads and risers lead upward, flanked by a white wall on the left and a dark handrail on the right.

Step 4 

Determine if you need to cut the existing stair treads down. Before you make any cuts, check your local building codes to make sure you are in compliance. International building code says the stair treads cannot be less than 10 inches deep. Our original treads are literally built into the sides or the stringers and cannot be removed without ripping out the entire staircase. The existing treads are also bull nose. In newer homes, this is generally not the case. In order to install the new treads, we needed to “square off” the existing treads otherwise the new treads would hang off the front edge too far. A yellow measuring tape measures the width of a wooden plank against a white wall, reminiscent of risers aligning with the stair treads. The floor beneath is dark, contrasting with the light wood and wall.

I did a lot of mathing to figure out what we needed to cut off. NOTE your stairs are likely not exactly the same as mine and you should take all of your own measurements to make sure your new stair treads are the right size. Our original stair treads were 10.5 inches deep. We did not change the depth of our treads. In order to accommodate the new risers which are 3/8 inches deep and maintain the 10.5 inch stair treads, we cut 1 inch off the front of each stair tread with our saw max and our multi tool. If your stairs are already square and flush, you can skip this step. A set of wooden stairs, their risers and stair treads dusted with sawdust, reflect ongoing carpentry work. Two corded power tools rest on the steps, hinting at renovation. The white stairs show clear signs of sanding and wear.

This was VERY messy! 

Step 5

Cut your risers to size. The risers we used were 7.5 inches tall out of the package but our stair risers are only 6.25 inches tall. So I rip cut 1.25 inches off each riser with our table saw. NOTE: You want to make sure you are cutting this amount off the same side of each riser if you choose to use the chevron pattern or your pattern will look different from stair to stair. A long, narrow white panel is shown against a dark, textured background. The panel features a diagram with a vertical arrow and the text "rip cut 1.25 inches" pointing to the left edge, ideal for cutting risers or stair treads with precision.

You will likely also need to cut down the length of the risers. Ours are 33 inches long. NOTE: Again, you will want to make sure to cut equal amounts off each side so the pattern lines up. I measured 16.5 inches from the center line of the pattern, cutting 4.5 inches off each end. I made these cuts with our miter saw.A white board with black lines rests on a dark wood floor, resembling stair treads. Arrows and text indicate measuring 4.5 inches from each side and from the center line.

NOTE: If you have stairs that are larger than the rest, make sure you line the pattern up first and then determine what side or sides need to be cut down. I learned this the hard way on our bottom two steps when I realized my pattern did not line up. Our bottom step is 39.5 inches long and the riser is 42 inches. In order for the pattern to line up, I cut  4.5 inches off the right side. and 0.75 inches off the left side. If you are dong the math you know this is still too short. I cut down a scrap piece for the remaining 3 inches lining up the pattern so it would look like a continuous piece. Two white rectangular tiles laid on a wooden floor. The left tile overlaps the right slightly, with visible pencil markings indicating cut lines, resembling stair treads. The wood beneath has a rich brown grain pattern. Close-up of a staircase featuring worn stairs with chipped edges and exposed layers. The white-painted risers display a herringbone pattern, contrasting against the dark stair treads. A wooden floor lies adjacent, with a baseboard running along the bottom.

Step 6

Cut your treads to size. For the top five treads, we cut them to 33 inches in length. Before we cut them, I checked how square they were with a speed square. Most of ours were pretty close but we still adjusted the angle just a hair on our miter saw when we made the cuts on the ends. Our miter saw is a 12 inch sliding saw. If yours doesn’t slide or is smaller, you probably will not be able to make these cuts in one pass. You could also use a table saw or a circular saw but this was the easiest method for us.

We also had to rip cut the treads. For this, I used the table saw. I cut 1 inch off the back of all the treads. Wooden board against a dark textured background with the words "rip cut 1 inch" and a vertical line and arrow indicating the direction of the cut—perfect for crafting stair treads or risers. A logo is visible in the lower left corner.

The bottom treads were a bit trickier. For these we used two left return treads that we cut down to size. First we cut 0.50 inches off the right side. Again, we used the miter saw for this cut. 

We also needed to cut an inch off the back side of both treads without cutting off the left return. Since the returns needed to be different, this process was not quite the same on each of them. We started with the bottom tread and cut the back part of the return flush with the back of the tread. Then I sent it through the table saw and stopped about 6 inches from the end. I then used the jigsaw to cut as far as I could before ran into the end with the fence.

Barry then used the multi tool to cut off the small amount that was left and sanded it clean. 

The second to last tread was even trickier since we only needed to keep a portion of the return and we needed to cut around the stringer. We cut the return flush and ripped 1 inch off the back the same as we did above. Then we used this tool to determine the curve of the cut around the stringer. A person uses a contour gauge to measure the edges and contours of stair treads and the white wall-to-dark floor transition. The gauge is pressed against the corner to accurately capture the shape, ensuring each riser aligns seamlessly with its adjacent surface.

To get this cut started we used the miter saw without sliding it from the back and the side so we were left with this. Close-up of a wooden board with two cuts and a marked curved line, held in place by a clamp on a table. Safety goggles and tools are visible nearby, suggesting a woodworking project involving stair treads or risers.

Then I used the jigsaw to cut around the curve. A close-up of wooden stair treads with light brown steps and white risers. The corner of a wall with a textured finish is visible as the stairs meet a different type of wood flooring at the bottom.

We dry fit ALL of our pieces before installing anything. This will also help you determine the pattern you want from your risers. I thought the pattern they made if alternated looked really cool but since we have all the board and batten going up the stairs, we chose to make all of ours point up.

A staircase with wooden stair treads and risers features a white chevron pattern. The lower step is next to a polished wooden floor. The image is taken from the bottom looking up, while a logo in the bottom left corner reads, “Garrison Street Design Studio.”.

Step 7

Number your pieces. Once the risers and treads have been dry fit, flip them over and number them on the back side and put a corresponding number on the existing risers and treads so you know where they go. 

Step 8

Paint the risers. These do come primed, but I highly recommend painting them so they do not scuff as easily. I used a foam roller to ensure a smooth finish. Do NOT use too much paint or the grooves will fill with paint and the design will become muted. I had a toothpick on hand to clear out any grooves that accumulated paint.  A tray with a paint roller sits on a cloth-covered surface next to painted wooden panels with diagonal grooves. More stair treads are lined up in the background, all boasting a fresh coat of white paint.

Step 9

Stain, paint or clear coat the treads. The treads we used came unfinished which I prefer. While I enjoyed my painted steps over the years, I was really into the natural finish of these treads. And I have been on a mission to mix wood tones throughout the house. As such, I chose to simply clear coat them. This is what I used. A can of Varathane Triple Thick Polyurethane sits on a wooden table, perfect for refinishing stair treads and risers. The label highlights features like an advanced self-leveling formula and clear satin finish. In the background, a garage with an open door provides the ideal setting for a DIY project.

After one coat, the wood just wasn’t as smooth as I was hoping. I did do a light sanding before I applied the clear coat, but it just wasn’t quite there. So I steel wooled them all after the first coat of poly. This a trick I learned a long time ago, but it totally works! You simply use steel wool as though it were sand paper and it gives the wood a nice smooth finish. You will definitely want to wear gloves for this. After they are smooth, wipe them down with a damp rag and do a second coat of poly.Wooden shelves and stair treads in the process of being stained are laid out on a table in a garage workshop. Various tools hang on the wall, including shovels and a rake. Sunlight filters through small windows on the garage door.

Step 10

Install the risers. We installed the risers first with Gorilla construction adhesive.Cross-sectional view of a sandwich panel with layers including a green top, a beige core, and a white bottom. Visible adhesive lines on the white layer detail its construction, reminiscent of stair treads in precise alignment.

I also added a nail in each corner with the nail gun, careful to make sure they were on the edges that would be covered by the new treads. We also caulked all the risers in before we installed the treads to prevent getting caulk all over the new treads. 

Step 11

Install the treads. For the stair treads, we also used Gorilla construction adhesive. I imagined I was painting a Jackson Pollock and went to town.A staircase with wooden risers and painted stair treads features a stencil design on the first step. The dark handrail contrasts elegantly with the white wall, while hardwood floors spread warmly at the base.

After each tread was in, we added some weight and left the weights in place for 24 hours. We did use the stairs during this time, just very carefully 😉 

A staircase with wooden stair treads features various sized dumbbells and weight plates arranged on each step. The weights are black and orange, and the staircase is bordered by white walls and a black handrail.

We also caulked in the treads with this caulk. I did tape the treads off to give a nice clean line. Just make sure you pull the tape off right away.

Wooden staircase with partially painted white paneling on the side. Blue painter's tape protects edges while risers and stair treads are prepped for a fresh coat. Weight plates rest on the middle step, highlighting a home improvement or renovation project in progress.

Step 12

Enjoy! Marvin was pretty skeptical at first, but he is definitely a fan now 🙂 A brown dog sits at the top of a staircase, looking down. The wooden stair treads with white risers add charm, and the Garrison Street design studio logo graces the bottom left corner.

I cannot believe we waited so long to do this! But at least we didn’t have to build the treads from scratch. If you want to see more video and all my behind the scenes, check out my Instagram stories stair highlight. A wooden staircase features light-colored steps with matching risers leading upwards. A black handrail accompanies the journey on the right side. At the bottom left, a small green plant in a black pot adds charm, while art pieces elegantly adorn the white walls above..

A close-up of stair treads reveals light wood paired with white risers, showcasing a subtle diagonal line pattern. The staircase exudes a minimalist and modern design, emphasizing the striking contrast between the natural wood and pristine white finish.

A before-and-after image of a staircase transformation showcases the evolution from carpeted stairs to elegant wooden stair treads with white risers, complemented by a sleek black handrail and a potted plant at the base.

A staircase with light wood stair treads and white risers ascends between white walls. A dark handrail is visible on the right side, and a potted plant is partially visible at the bottom left. The landing at the top is out of focus.

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A modern entryway with a black front door, wooden staircase boasting sleek stair treads and risers, and minimal decor. A black console table with white vases and greenery sits on the left, while a round mirror hangs above. The ceiling features a contemporary light fixture.

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Wooden stair treads and risers boast a modern design with a light finish. Text reads "Modern Stair Treads & Risers" from Garrison Street Design Studio. A black planter with tall green plants enhances the landing.

This post, DIY Modern Stair Treads & Risers, appeared first on Garrison Street Design Studio.

5 Comments

      1. Can you post a diy for your board and batten? Also, what color of grey paint do you use on your walls! Love it

        1. Thank you so much Taylor! The walls in the upstairs hallway (the dark color) are SW Iron Ore. The walls in the downstairs (light color) are SW Agreeable Gray. I will work on putting a tutorial together. Thank you for the request 😉

  1. You did such a great job on this project! It made a huge difference, and your stairs look so modern and trendy now. I’m getting my floors refinished in a few weeks and would love to have them do something like this on the stairway near the entryway of my home. I hope you don’t mind if I copy your look!

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